Treme by David Simon
Author:David Simon
Language: eng
Format: mobi
Publisher: Chronicle Books LLC
Published: 2013-12-27T22:00:00+00:00
CREOLE GUMBO
They have so many different kinds of gumbo these days. Looks like they just put the word “gumbo” on the menu so tourists will buy it. But this is real New Orleans Creole gumbo, not that old Cajun stuff with the burned roux. On restaurant menus these days, they tell you what’s in the gumbo—chicken and andouille gumbo or seafood gumbo. A real Creole gumbo always has shrimp, crab, and some kind of sausage. The rest is up to who’s cooking it. But you don’t never have tell people all the meat you have in there. If they know it’s Creole gumbo, they already know what’s in it.
I’ll never forget I walked into Bachemin’s meat market on St. Bernard to buy me some hot sausage and pickle meat. I guess the sign had always been there, but look like I was reading it for the first time. “We make our hot sausage just like our forefather’s did. All beef.” It never occurred to me that Creole hot sausage was made with beef. It’s a fresh sausage, it’s not smoked. It’s like Italian sausage in terms of how it will naturally crumble apart if you take it out of the casing. But the seasoning is totally different. It’s real red, so it must have a lot of cayenne and paprika in it. Probably a lot of garlic powder too. I’ve never seen it outside New Orleans. But now, since the storm, maybe you can find it in the places our people got exiled to. I know Vaucresson is back in business selling sausage, even though their store hasn’t opened back up.
When you serve it, it’s like a soup. Don’t pick the meat out and just spoon a little gravy on top. That’s what out of town folks do and I hate it. You’re supposed to eat it with a spoon because the juice and all the ingredients have flavor.
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